Stories about businesses

The business behind the curtain

The realities of running a massage and spa in Kathmandu

Introducing Maya and her business

Maya (name has been changed) is in her mid-thirties. She owns a massage and spa business in an area of Kathmandu that is an entertainment and tourist hub. Maya’s business is in a neighbourhood with a mixture of small and medium scale businesses including travel agencies, clothes shops, shops selling trekking gear, khaja ghars (snack shops), hair salons and grocery shops. A few minutes-walk away there are larger, higher-end hotels and restaurants intermingled with shops appealing to the international tourist market.

Maya’s massage and spa venue is located on the second floor of a five-storey building, just above a small fish shop. The other floors are occupied by the offices of small-scale micro-finance companies. Within the massage and spa venue, there are three rooms partitioned by plywood where services are provided to customers, along with a bathroom and an open reception area with sofas. This reception area serves as a space for welcoming customers and taking payments. The same space is used by employees to pass the time when they are not serving customers. Each of the three rooms used for massage has a small wooden single bed rather than a massage table, a heater and a coat stand. The set-up is simple. No music is played, and privacy is limited due to the thin plywood walls of the massage rooms. Although the bed sheets are washed regularly, the venue doesn’t have the wellness ambience or hygiene standards that might be expected from a massage and spa operator.

Maya has been working in the massage sector for around ten years. After her husband left her and she was forced to raise their two sons alone, Maya started the business with the support of relatives from her village. She acquired massage skills at a massage and spa venue run by her relative before starting her own business in 2016. The initial investment to begin her business was 300,000 NPR (US $2,300). The business is officially registered in Maya’s name but the profit is shared equally with a man she describes as a friend (a business partner) who provided financial support when she set up the business.

Maya pays 35,000 NPR (US $270) per month in rent. She has four female employees (two of whom are children aged 14 and 15). The employees’ earnings come exclusively from commission and tips; Maya does not pay them a salary.

The doorway to the massage and spa which is situated on the second floor of the building*

Maya and her employees did not explicitly describe the range of services the massage and spa offers. Massage and spa businesses in the area have historically been under close surveillance from the police and the sector is stigmatised because of its association with the sex industry. The business therefore relies on discretion, and it was expected that aspects of the business might be hidden or obscured from researchers. Additionally, most interactions with customers take place behind the closed doors of treatment rooms (which researchers were unable to observe).

However, from informal discussions with employees and by observing the massage and spa over two days, researchers were able to infer that in addition to massage, sexual services are also provided as per customer request. One adult employee told researchers how the amount customers paid for ‘pure’ massage services is split evenly between the employee and the owner, whilst only 25% of the amount paid for ‘extra work’ is given to the owner and 75% to the employee (although the employee did not want to explicitly describe what ‘extra work’ entailed).

Plywood separates the rooms in the massage parlour. Each room has a small wooden bed, heater and coat stand.

In this account the authors have used the generic term ‘service’ to refer to the activities that took place within the rooms (this may have comprised of massage therapy only, and/or sexual services but due to the discrete nature of the business researchers are unable to know what took place).

All four of Maya’s employees provide services to customers. The two children are also responsible for preparing the venue for customers, which includes cleaning the rooms and washing the towels and bedsheets. Of the four employees, three of them are siblings (including the two child employees).

The massage and spa venue is open between 8am and 9pm, operating for a total of 13 hours each day, seven days per week. However, operating hours can vary based on customer demand: if there are individuals who require massage services outside of opening hours, Maya may accommodate them if she has employees available.

Accompanying Maya at work

In November 2022 two female CLARISSA researchers accompanied Maya at her massage and spa venue, for two days to observe in detail the day-to-day realities, practices and pressures of running this type of business. Over the course of these two days, the researchers continuously observed the activities within the business from the beginning of the working day until Maya left the premises. Informal conversations were also conducted with Maya and her employees during periods when there were no customers. The research team made in-depth observations about financial transactions, employee experiences and customer relations. At the end of each day the researchers recorded their observations.

Over the course of the observation period, a total of eight customers visited the massage and spa venue: three customers on the first day, and five on the second day. Additionally, two individuals visited who Maya and her employees said were plain-clothed police officers. Maya was not concerned about these visits, which she considered to be routine checks that did not disrupt the business. All customers were Nepalese.

Maya is trained in massage but if her employees are not available, she does not provide services herself, even if this means turning customers away. (Maya would not explicitly say why she did not want to provide services). Maya’s role is managerial; she takes calls from customers, delegates tasks to her employees and assigns employees to customers.

What happened at the massage and spa

Day one

On the first day of the accompaniment, Maya opened the massage and spa venue at 8am. Her employees arrived at 9am. Tasks were allocated among the four staff members. The child employees were tasked with cleaning the massage centre, including the three partitioned rooms. One of the adult employees was smoking while Maya assigned tasks.

At midday a male customer arrived, and the 14-year-old employee was assigned to him. They went together into one of the treatment rooms and closed the door. Employees take turns to serve customers, because they work on commission basis. However, when customers have preferences, they choose the employee they wish to take a service with.

During this time, the 15-year-old employee was observed going ‘live’ on TikTok. She told customers to visit the massage and spa, interacting in a flirtatious way with specific individuals who were watching by saying things such as, ‘ma ramro sanga massage gardinchu, aunus na’ (‘Come here and I’ll give you a good massage’). She often asked them to ‘tap’ to increase the number of likes, which would then expand the reach of the live stream.

The first customer came out of the room having finished his session with the 14-year-old employee, and the other employees began interacting with him in a flirtatious way, asking him to buy them snacks. The customer took out his wallet, gesturing in a light-hearted way that he didn’t have enough money to pay for snacks and parking charges. However, he then ordered chow mein noodles for all four employees.

Shortly after, another male customer arrived at the venue. One of the adult employees appeared to know this customer, and she took him to one of the rooms. The door remained open. The employee sat close to the customer, engaging him in conversation, which was difficult for the researchers to hear. After some time, one of the child employees entered the room and asked if they wanted coffee. The customer agreed and gave her 500 NPR (US $4). She went out to get coffee and the adult employee continued to engage in conversation with the customer.

The child employee returned, and after drinking his coffee, the customer left the venue. As he was leaving the child employee expressed a desire for him to visit again the following day, which elicited laughter from her co-workers.

A treatment room in the massage and spa. The bed has clean sheets, a pillow and blanket, but is not a professional massage bed.

No one else visited the massage and spa until 6.30 pm, when a male customer entered and asked Maya to speak with him outside the premises. He did not return. Maya explained that he was a new customer and had requested a specific employee. During an informal conversation later that day, Maya said that the customer wanted one of the CLARISSA researchers to provide the massage service. Maya suggested one of her employees as an alternative but the customer insisted that he wanted the researcher to provide the service. Unable to meet his request, the customer left the venue. Maya laughed while sharing this information with the researcher.

The two adult employees then left the massage and spa. They earned no income that day as there were only two customers. Even though one of the adult employees had spent half an hour conversing with one customer inside the massage room, no money was paid for her time. He just provided coffee for the employees.

After some time, two men entered the venue wearing normal clothes, but both the researchers and the employees thought their haircuts resembled those of police officers. One of the men sat near to the child employee, who was busy on her mobile phone. The other sat on a different sofa and began inquiring about the services and asking about the prices. Maya handed the man details of the services on offer and talked through the different types of massage (e.g., oil massage, hard massage) and the prices. The customer reviewed the menu and inquired about the number of employees working. He stood up and glanced inside the rooms and mentioned that a hair salon on the ground floor referred them to the massage and spa and that another friend was supposed to join them. The other man, seated next to the child employee, was attentively observing the two children and their activities.

The two customers again asked Maya how many employees were available for service. She responded that there were two, which prompted the two customers to exchange a meaningful look. After some time, they left, saying they will return shortly with another friend. As soon as they departed, one of the child employees asked Maya if they were plain-clothed police officers. Initially, Maya said they weren’t, but later she said she also suspected the same. Maya reassured the children that they need not worry about police officers in plain clothes if they didn’t have official documents, such as a search warrant. She seemed un-phased by their visit.

At 8:30 pm, one of the child employees began washing her face, signalling the end of the day’s activities. The other child employee approached Maya to discuss preparations for the following day. Maya mentioned that she might have to go somewhere the next day and she asked the girls to arrive early for work. During the conversation, Maya received a phone call from a customer, and she invited them to come to the massage and spa venue.

After ending the call, Maya spoke with one of the researchers. She mentioned that two of her employees had worked without receiving any payment that day, because there had not been enough customers. She assured the researcher that those employees would be given priority to serve customers the next day. Maya had provided travel expenses to these employees.

Soon after, the customer who had spoken on the phone with Maya arrived at the venue. Maya instructed one of the child employees to serve the customer. Maya and the customer seemed familiar with each other, and they interacted in a relaxed manner. He went with the older of the two children into the room. When he came out of the room, he paid 1,500 NPR (US $10). The child employee sat back down on the sofa. It was the end of the day and she looked tired.

Day two

On the morning of the second day (a Friday) the venue opened at 8 am as usual. The two child employees were the first to reach there. After entering the venue, the older of the two child employees started to clean the premises, while the other used her phone. Maya was going somewhere else (as she’d informed her employees the previous day), but she was waiting for one of the adult employees to arrive before she left. This employee arrived after dropping off her son at school. The second adult employee also arrived before Maya left.

The adult employee who had been given the responsibility of handling the business in the absence of Maya seemed worried; she started smoking and talking on the phone with a relative as soon as she arrived. Her concerns were about her family members (her child, husband and brother) and the need for additional income which might require her husband to travel for work overseas. Meanwhile, the 15-year-old employee completed the cleaning and laundry and then took a shower. With Maya absent, the researchers were able to speak with the employees, including the two children, about their experiences at work.

It was at this point that the employees disclosed the children’s ages. And one of the adult employees revealed their connections with other agencies and customers, which occasionally led to opportunities for them to travel outside of Kathmandu valley for additional work and income. She would not disclose the exact nature of this additional work, but the adult employee said that they could be offered up to 20,000 NPR (US $150) per day for these out-of-valley assignments.

There were no customers at the massage and spa centre in the morning. Maya returned at around 11 am and after her arrival the employees placed an order for lunch. The children said that they have no kitchen or kitchen facilities at home and so rely solely on the food they eat during the working hours: they eat both lunch and dinner at work.

Maya received several phone calls from potential customers inquiring if there was availability at the massage and spa. She happily extended invitations to them, indicating that the business was open and that her staff were ready to serve them. During this time, one of the child employees was again ‘live’ on TikTok, inviting customers to visit.

Two male customers came to the centre at around 1pm. One child employee and one adult employee welcomed them and took them to the rooms. Both customers seemed familiar with the place, chatting easily with Maya and the other employees. Throughout the afternoon four or five other male customers visited the massage and spa individually. Each customer asked about their services and then left. Some were familiar with Maya and her employees and asked who the researchers were. Maya replied ‘They are our ‘ma’ams’ (despite researchers’ suggestions to introduce them as friends). Describing the researchers using the formal term ‘ma’am’ was perhaps a signal to the customers, because on hearing this they left the venue.

Throughout the day, the flow of customers was limited. This allowed for many periods of down-time, where Maya openly discussed some of her personal issues. She is out of contact with her husband and has sole responsibility for taking care of her two young sons. She is unable to obtain citizenship certificates for her children because she can’t reach her husband and does not know how to file for a divorce. She also struggles with keeping her massage business a secret from her family, including her sons (the massage and spa sector is highly stigmatised in Nepal – it’s association with the sex industry means many people working in the sector hide the nature of their profession from friends and family). At the same time, she appreciates the support she receives from her male friend and business partner.

All the employees (including the children) shared their own problems and family issues with Maya during these idle moments. At times, the atmosphere seemed friendly and supportive. However, at one point, Maya raised her voice and spoke firmly to one of the child employees. She emphasised the importance of saving money, stating, “Save your money when you are young. I want to remind you that you get this job only when you are young.”

As the day was ending, one of the child employees asked to take leave the following day (a Saturday). Maya refused the request, sternly warning her that this type of request could result in being fired from the job. Maya then attempted to justify her decision, explaining that Saturday is a weekend day, and that there would likely be more customers. She emphasised the need for all employees to be present on Saturdays. The child employee chose not to argue further with Maya, and instead began scrolling on her mobile phone.

Five customers visited on the second day and two or three took a service with an employee. At around 8pm, Maya instructed her employees to begin closing the venue. The fifteen-year-old child employee took charge of cleaning and arranging the massage equipment. During this time, Maya received phone calls from potential customers inquiring about appointments. She asked them to visit the following day.

The children working in Maya’s massage and spa

The two sisters aged 14 and 15 are the youngest of seven siblings. Their four sisters and their only brother are married, so the youngest sisters take responsibility for their elderly parents. They find it challenging to meet their parent’s needs and cover the costs of running the household. Although they all live in the same building, their parents are estranged; they live in separate rooms and do not speak with each other. The sisters find their parents’ relationship disturbing and difficult to deal with.

Both sisters have left school. The youngest sister works part-time as a dance teacher in a school close to their home. She described how she gives massages at work and was encouraged by her co-workers to start providing sexual services. Later we learned that she had left the massage and spa venue. After a short period working in a café, she is working in a dohori (folk dance bar) and has also acted in music videos. The elder of the two children still works in the massage and spa venue.

The hidden nature of the massage and spa

There were aspects of the business that Maya and her employees wanted to conceal or obscure from the researchers. Employees didn’t want to describe what ‘extra’ work entailed, and throughout the two days, researchers observed frequent non-verbal interactions between co-workers, and between the employees and their customers. Researchers felt these were used as ways of communicating with each other that the researchers would not be able to understand.

The researchers’ presence also influenced the behaviour of the employees and certain customers. For example, one customer chose only to sit in the treatment room with an employee, rather than avail himself of other services, whilst other customers quickly left the venue soon after arriving once they had seen the researchers.

These observations show how important discretion is to the business model, and its importance to Maya and her employees who must keep their professional life secret from their families.

The massage and spa business model

According to Maya, the massage and spa venue’s turnover is around 2,000 to 6,000 NPR per day (US $15-45). The price for massage starts at 1,000 NPR (US $7). The venue’s rent is 35,000 NPR per month (US $270). After deducting all operating costs, Maya and her male partner are left with approximately 30,000 NPR (US $230) per month in profit between them (15,000 NPR each). Maya does not have any plans to invest further in the business or expand, because she feels that the current level of profitability is sufficient.

Through observation and informal discussions with employees, researchers understood that the business relies on strategies that involve fostering a sexually charged environment and providing sexual services rather than just massage services. From what could be seen, this appeared to include building personal relationships with customers through sharing time, meals and conversations together. This suggests that the business may struggle to attract and retain customers solely based on the quality of their massage services.

Maya did not initially disclose the involvement of her business partner. However, it seemed that the business partner exerts a degree of influence on the business and on Maya. For example, it was later discovered that Maya had arranged for the CLARISSA researchers to accompany her at the business on days when he would be in a different city. Maya and her employees also framed their discussions about what to do regarding a broken window at the massage and spa, in terms of how this partner would react. Maya seemed concerned about the costs of replacing the window.

Maya and her employees are able to generate monthly profit/ earnings. But Maya’s dependence on financial support from a hidden partner to cover unexpected costs (e.g. the maintenance of a broken window) implies that the business lacks the profitability to accumulate a financial reserve. This leaves the business susceptible and unable to protect itself during difficult times.

The massage and spa is connected to other businesses in the area. Maya buys massage oil and other goods through local informal vendors, including khaja ghars and barber shops. With some businesses and individuals, there are referral arrangements in place. For example, Maya spoke about one customer as, ‘That new customer, who might be the one sent by the salon nearby’. Maya later explained that the customers are referred by rickshaw drivers, and local businesses such as salons and khaja ghars. The level of commission given to these intermediaries in return for sending customers was not discussed.

Relations between employees and employers

The employees have a comfortable relationship with Maya, often discussing their personal issues and seeking her advice. During periods of low custom, they have ample time to engage in personal conversations. Maya allows the staff to use their mobile phones during these times. This might include going ‘live’ on TikTok to promote the business, or just browsing on social media platforms. In some ways Maya has a maternal role in relation to her employees. For example, she advises them to save money and to not spend randomly.

However, children are working in roles that constitute the worst forms of child labour. The massage and spa and pay structures incentivise them to engage in the provision of sexual services. This is reinforced by encouragement from co-workers. There were also instances where Maya and the adult employees spoke offensively, strictly or in a harmful way to the child employees. For example, they referred to them using the derogatory term thuti (‘stumpy’) and they were reprimanded at times for any delays in completing cleaning or other assigned tasks. They were expected to undertake menial tasks such as going out to buy cigarettes or coffee at any time.

The reception area of the massage and spa. There is a small sofa where the employees sit during periods of low custom, a water dispenser, and a shelving unit housing clean sheets and massage oil.

Customer relations

There are several methods used to attract customers to the massage and spa venue. This is needed due to the high level of competition in the immediate neighbourhood and surrounding area. In addition to referrals, social media is used to appeal to customers. TikTok serves as a platform where phone numbers can be exchanged, which then leads to a rise in custom in the evenings (between 5pm and 7pm). This strategy is reliant on the child employees who are skilled at maximising the potential of the platform to reach a wide customer base.

Employees alluded to ‘extra’ activities that were provided within the massage parlour and spa. In addition, one of the adult employees disclosed that there were times when they engaged in lucrative assignments outside Kathmandu valley, primarily in a popular tourist city in a different part of Nepal. While the employees did not explicitly describe what takes place during these assignments, researchers assumed that the assignments involve the provision of sexual services. Out-of-valley work assignments typically last a week or more. An intermediary will share photos and the citizenship certificates of potential women and girls for this work via social media, and customers will then select and invite their preferred candidates. Expenses are covered by customers during these assignments, and the girls can earn a substantial income (approximately 20,000 NPR (US $154) per day). The customers requesting these assignments are often wealthy Nepalese individuals who work abroad. (The term lahure was used, which refers to individuals who work abroad long-term, often in a foreign country’s army, and have benefits within that country such as a salary, pension entitlement and permanent residency/ citizenship. Such individuals may return to Nepal to visit family and enjoy leisure time in popular tourist destinations).

Conclusion

Maya’s massage and spa business is a means for Maya to sustain herself and her family during a time of crisis (her husband has left her). Although officially the business is in Maya’s name, a male partner was crucial in the set-up of the business and seems to continue to exert influence over its running.

During the two days CLARISSA researchers spent at the business, it was apparent that a range of services are provided at the establishment; activities include but go beyond the provision of massage. Relational and physical intimacy is part of the business model and is key to generating a profit: from building personal relationships with customers through sharing time, meals and conversations, to the provision of ‘extra’ activities (i.e. sexual services). Maya’s business must compete with high numbers of massage and spas in the area, some of which offer more modern facilities and are set up as more professional massage therapy businesses. The costs for massage are similar. Maya’s business is therefore likely to struggle to attract and retain customers based solely on providing massage services.

Although Maya said she was happy with her earnings, it appears that the business does not earn enough for her to save. Similarly, employees earn hand-to-mouth – they talked about spending their earnings soon after getting paid – and they had limited (if any) savings. For employees, the variation in commission rates for ‘extra work’ (75% rather than 50% for massage) incentivises them to provide sexual services.

The two children in the massage and spa were often alone with adult men, with no oversight or protection. Although researchers could not observe exactly what took place within the treatment rooms, it is clear that both the online and physical spaces they work in are sexually charged, and that they have to be physical intimate with adult men meaning that they are engaged in the worst form of child labour. While not disclosed directly, the children might also be sexually exploited in ways that include providing sexual services to some customers (discussed below).

The relationships between the children and the massage and spa is complex. In some ways, the business is a space for them not only to work, but also to hang out, use their mobile phones, have their meals and talk with their co-workers. It is more than just a workplace and the relationships between employees and Maya feels familial in some respects: they share personal concerns with each other, and Maya and the adult employees give advice to the children. The massage parlour offers them a space where they can enjoy some freedom and responsibility, and the physical distance from home provides somewhere to go to away from difficult family circumstances.

However, there is an informal hierarchy within the massage and spa, which the child employees are at the bottom of. This is reinforced through the tasks assigned to them and the way they were spoken to. This hierarchy reflects social norms in Nepal where children are expected to undertake menial tasks and to follow the instructions of those older than them. Yet, the child employees are essential to this business: they are key to attracting customers online, and they undertake many of the tasks that are central to the functioning of the business (including physical intimacy with adult men). The child employees are left alone with adult men without oversight or protection, in a sector where the association with the sex industry makes propositions for the provision of direct sexual services likely. The workplace’s business model also makes children vulnerable to sexual exploitation that involves the provision of sexual services. For example, this is incentivised by the pay structure, and reinforced by co-workers who hold positions of influence over the children due to their superiority within the workplace hierarchy. As well as the harms associated with working in a sexually exploitative environment, the children spend long hours (13 hours per day) in the establishment, often for seven days a week. Long hours limit their opportunities to engage in other activities, and of course, can be exhausting and harmful. The fact that their employment is kept secret from their families (because of the stigma attached to working in the massage and spa sector) further isolates them, as they are not able to share their experiences with anyone outside of the massage and spa.

It was particularly striking how children are the outward face of the business on social media. This is likely to be a recent evolution of the massage and spa business model. The various ways the use of technology can lead to additional forms of child sexual exploitation – including outside children’s place of work and online – requires more investigation.

*Photo credit: Anish Bastola. Photographs were taken in a massage parlour in Kathmandu which is similar in size and set-up to Maya’s massage parlour. Written consent was provided by the owner.